The Sun Protection Conference will focus on sun protection strategies relating to the benefits of unprotected skin exposure and protection against short and long term skin damage by the sun. For years sun protection and avoidance have been the strategies promoted by dermatologists, governments and industry, even though we know that we all derive certain benefits from the sun. The benefits of sun exposure such as vitamin D synthesis, blood pressure reduction, suppression of autoimmune disease and a feeling of wellbeing have been secondary to protection but are important in the promotion of general good health. But can we create sun protection products that give us exposure to the sun while still providing the desired protection from UV damage?
International expert speakers will be exploring the concepts of products that give us exposure to the benefits sun whilst providing the protection from UV damage, the right balance of protection with UVA/UVB/IR and an update on sun care technologies, worldwide regulations and testing including longevity claims.
1) Sun exposure: The benefits and detriment
2) The variability and improvements in sun protection measurement techniques
3) Current topics in Regulatory and safety of sunscreens
4) New concepts in sun exposure and protection
5) Sun protection technologies and measures to improve product performance
Jack Ferguson is the scientific programme organiser for the biennial London Sun Protection and Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conferences. He has participated in CTPA and Colipa technical committees and chaired the Colipa Task Force on sun protection measurement (1990 to 1998). Jack is an independent consultant to the cosmetics industry and is expert in sun care, skin care and support for advertising claims for cosmetic products. Jack is a past president of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists (UK) and was the Scientific Programme Chairman for the 2002 IFSCC Congress in Edinburgh.
Jack established the consulting company Skinnovation Ltd in the year 2000. The company provides bespoke formulation development services to cosmetic and pharmaceutical organisations for sun care and skin care products.
|08:15||Registration and welcome coffee|
|09:10||Opening address||Dr Jack Ferguson, Skinnovation Ltd, UK|
|Session 1: Sun exposure: The benefits and detriment||Chairman: Dr Jack Ferguson, Skinnovation Ltd, UK|
|09:20||Keynote: The Yin and Yang of sun exposure: achieving a balance for good health||Professor Robyn Lucas, The Australian National University Canberra, Australia|
|10:00||Can we maintain the benefits of sunlight exposure while retaining full protection from potential damaging deleterious effects?||Dr Michael Finnen, RelaxSol Ltd, Edinburgh, UK|
|10:20||TBC (NICE guidelines)|
|10:45||Networking coffee break|
|11:15||The need for broad protection in sun care: A focus on high energy visible and infra-red light||Dr Amy Goddard, Croda UK|
|11:35||Infra-red: Assessment of hazard and risk to the skin||Mr Benoit Cadars, Bioderma, France|
|11:55||In-use SPF protection efficacy of daily skin care: A comparative study||Dr Joshua Williams, Johnson & Johnson, USA|
|12:20||Keynote: Who are we serving? The desperate need for impeccable public education in sun protection!||Professor Paul Matts, Procter & Gamble, UK|
|Session 2: The variability and improvements in sun protection measurement techniques||Chairman: Dr Jack Ferguson, Skinnovation Ltd, UK|
|14:00||Interlaboratory variability of in vivo SPF||Sébastien Miksa, Helioscreen, France|
On the way for the SPF in vitro validation
|Dr Marc Passavini, Coty, France|
|14:55||In vivo SPF variability: The importance of erythema assessment in the reliability of SPF||Dr Caroline Tricaud, L’Oréal, Paris|
|15:15||Networking coffee break|
|15:45||HDRS - Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy
The future of non erythemal in vivo testing of SPF?
|Dr Mathias Rohr, Institut Dr. Schrader, Germany|
|16:05||Tolerability and efficacy of sunscreen products under conditions of sweating and physical activity||Dr Stephan Bielfeldt, proDerm, Germany|
|16:30||Changes to SPF test ISO 24444 – Why and When?||Mr John Staton, Dermatest Pty Ltd, Australia|
|16:50||Discussion of current topics|
|18:00||Drinks reception sponsored by BASF|
|19:15||End of first day|
|08:30||Registration and welcome coffee|
|09:00||Opening address||Dr Jack Ferguson, Skinnovation Ltd, UK|
|Session 3: Current topics in Regulatory and safety of sunscreens||Chairman: Dr Jack Ferguson, Skinnovation Ltd, UK|
|09:05||Are US FDA Safety Requirements for GRAS(E) Status of New UV Filters Unreasonable?||Dr Jay Nash, Procter & Gamble USA|
|09:30||Titanium Dioxide - A safe ingredient for cosmetics||Dr Frank Pfluecker, Merck, Germany|
|09:50||Nano - A challenge for industry!||Mechtild Peterson-Thiery, BASF, Germany|
|10:10||Networking coffee break|
|Session 4: New concepts in sun exposure and protection||Dr Marc Pissavini, Coty, France|
|10:40||Enhancing Skin UV Protection using the unique photochemical properties of the Endogenous Natural Folates||Steven Bailey, Department of Pharmacology, University of South Alabama|
|11:10||Cyclobutane Pyrimidine Dimers, NADPH Oxidase and Peroxynitrite: How are they all interlinked?||Dr Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Sytheon Ltd, USA|
|11:35||NAD and sun damage||Dr John Oblong, Procter & Gamble, USA|
|12:00||New approach to develop optimized sunscreens enabling dermal vitamin d formation with minimal erythema risk||Dr Bernd Herzog, BASF, Germany|
|12:25||Cutaneous pigmentation effect of blue light. Are UVA and UVB tests enough for sun protection claim?||Jessen Curpen, CIPD Mauritius|
|Session 5: Sun protection technologies and measures to improve product performance||Chairman: Dr Jack Ferguson, Skinnovation Ltd, UK|
|13:50||Marine mycosporine like amino acids (MAA) – biocompatible sunscreens from nature||Professor Antony Young, Kings College London, UK|
|14:15||Segregation of individual sunscreen constituents related to application procedure and substrate probed by Raman confocal microscopy||Dr Jürgen Vollhardt, DSM, Switzerland|
|14:40||Anti-infammatory activity of sun care products||Dr Ludger Kolbe, Beiersdorf, Germany|
|15:10||The SUN- Our shared primary reference light source for Sunscreen Efficacy||Mr John Staton, Dermatest PTY Ltd, Australia|
|15:30||Concluding remarks and discussion|
Amy Goddard joined Croda in 2010 after completing a degree in Biochemistry at the University of York. She initially joined the company’s graduate scheme, gaining experience in the fields of environmental chemistry, renewable product synthesis, marketing and sales.
In 2013 she moved into the Personal Care side of the business, with responsibilities focused on new product developments in green and sustainable products. In 2015 she joined the Sun Care department, with responsibility for leading the global synthesis team. Key responsibilities include managing research projects in the field of sun protection and the development of new product.
Amy Goddard recently completed her doctoral studies at the University of Nottingham in Chemistry. Her Ph.D subject focused on sustainable synthesis of natural polymeric material.
Doctor of Analytical Chemistry, Master of Science in Chemistry both at University of Saarbrücken, Germany. Since 1991 she is working for BASF, initially as head of analytical lab in the department of agricultural products, responsible for substance identification and characterization (active ingredient and impurities) as well as analytics in water and animal feed. She participated in the development of internationally standardized analytical methods and general pesticide specifications (Collaborative International Pesticide Analytical Council, CIPAC; and FAO) and was responsible for the worldwide registration of pesticides and plant protection products (product chemistry part).
Now she is working as Regulatory Manager for cosmetics with specific responsibility for the registration and product stewardship of UV-filters for sunscreen products. She supports cosmetic companies to comply with the different cosmetic regulatory environments. She is nano expert for the Care Chemicals Division of BASF, conducts dialogues with different stakeholders: authorities, consumers, scientists and non-governmental organizations. At BASF she is responsible for the REACH registration of UV filters and their precursor products.
Bernd Herzog currently is head of Global Development UV Protection and Scientific Liaisons in the Care Chemicals Operating Unit of BASF.
Bernd was trained in Biochemistry and Physical Chemistry at the Universities of Göttingen (Germany) and Bristol (UK), and started his industrial career in 1989 at Ciba-Geigy AG in Basel (Switzerland) in R&D of colloidal systems. Since 1992 he works in the development of UV-absorbers for sunscreens, since 2009 with BASF Grenzach GmbH (Germany).
He is appointed Associate Professor at the Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences of the University of Basel, where he lectures Pharmaceutical Technology and Physical Chemistry.
Jack Ferguson obtained a BSc honours degree in Biology with Chemistry and a PhD in Bioengineering, both from Strathclyde University, Glasgow. He has worked in the cosmetics industry for over 20 years. After spending some time with Beecham Products in Leatherhead, he moved to the Boots Company in Nottingham, where he worked for 15 years. His final responsibilities were as Head of R&D Services, Boots Contract Manufacturing. During his time there he was joint developer and promoter of the Boots UVA star rating system.
From Boots, Jack moved to Oriflame International, Dublin, and was R&D Director there for five years, before leaving in 2000 to set up a new company, Skinnovation Ltd. Skinnovation provide contract product development services for clients and focuses on sun and skin care products and also on product claims support for advertising.
Jack also works as cosmetics consultant for ITV, providing technical and scientific advice on claims support for television scripts in advance of broadcasting. He has been active in the Cosmetic Trade associations, particularly in the sun care area, and was the chairman of the Colipa ‘Sun Protection Measurement’ TF 1990-1998 and chairman at the time the Colipa SPF test was developed and published.
Jack has published and presented several papers on sun care and skin care. He is a past president of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists GB (1993-94) and was the Scientific Programme Chairman for the IFSCC Congress in Edinburgh 2002. He was a trustee and treasurer of the charity FRAME (Fund for the Replacement of Animals in Medical Experimentation) from 2004 to 2009. Jack has been the programme organiser of the London Sun Protection conferences for almost 20 years and of the Anti-ageing Skin Care conference for 3 years.
Dr. Nash has worked for P&G as a toxicologist since 1992. Currently he is a Research Fellow in Central Product Safety part of the Global Product Stewardship organization at P&G. He has provided in-depth toxicological evaluations of UV filters, acne treatment agents, anti-dandruff shampoos, e.g., zinc pyrithione, and other topically applied products. Dr. Nash has been responsible for preparation of human safety/efficacy dossiers for numerous topically applied cosmetic/drug products that have been submitted to regulatory authorities throughout the world, e.g., US FDA, US EPA, European Commission and SCCS, China MoH. His areas of expertise include: dermal toxicology, photobiology/phototoxicology with experience in areas of in vitro, animal and human phototoxicology models, sunscreens and light-based, e.g., laser, IPL, devices.
John E. Oblong, PhD, joined P&G over 22 years ago with a diverse research background in plant biochemistry as well as cancer research. Dr. Oblong completed his undergraduate studies at Loyola University (Chicago, IL) and in 1992 received his PhD in Molecular Genetics and Cell Biology from the University of Chicago. His postdoctoral studies in redox regulation in cancer were completed at the Arizona Cancer Center, University of Arizona.
Since joining P&G, he has been actively involved in numerous skin and hair biology projects. Dr. Oblong is currently responsible for identifying breakthrough skin care technologies that deliver benefits to both female and male global consumers. To achieve this, the research is coordinated across numerous technical centers around the world. A main focus of late for his research has been on understanding the role of NAD+, niacinamide and cellular bioenergetics as it relates to UV-induced changes in human skin biology.
John comes from a background of over 50 years experience in the pharmaceutical and healthcare industries. After 30 years in various Technical and Senior Management roles, he set up development and testing labs, Dermatest TechConsult, just over 20 years ago.
John is a Past President and Life Member of Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists and 5 times winner of the annual award for original Australian research in cosmetic science. He serves on a number of industry representative roles with Australian Self Medication Industry, ACCORD, Therapeutic Goods Administration and Standards Australia.
He has been, since 2006, Australian representative to the ISO Committee on Sunscreen Testing - TC 217 W.G.7 and is a member of CS-042 Sunscreens, the committee for development of sunscreen standards for Australia and New Zealand
Marc PISSAVINI is a chemist Ph.D. He started his career in the cosmetic industry in the field of Analytical chemistry in 1997. Quickly (1998), he’s joined the Sun Research Department of Coty-Lancaster Group. Since 2008 he’s the Director of the Basic & Applied Research, specialized in In Vitro spectroscopy and in the study of the roughness of supports. According to, he succeeds a Ph.D, participates to elaboration of publications, norms and conference which innovates in this field knowledge. As an active actor on the subject, he participates also at different task forces and at different group of specialists and industries as AFNOR, or FEBEA since many years but also as chairman in the In Vitro Task force for Cosmetics Europe and also for ISO in the SPF In Vitro group since 2012.
Jürgen received Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry from the Technical University of Darmstadt in Germany and later joined Dragoco in Germany to found their dedicated R&D Lab for skin bioactives, anti-microbial compounds and plant extracts. He then moved to New Jersey, USA to manage the skin care active business for Dragoco in Symrise. From the time working in close contact with the colleagues of the F&F industry he had an on-going interest into several facets of sensory research.
In 2003 Jürgen joined Roche/DSM to head skin care and later also the sun care research team and helped to integrate the new colleagues form Pentapharm R&D. In that time he got more involved in sun care.
For the past 2 years, Jürgen has assumed a research fellow position to guide and establish new competencies in DSM R&D Personal Care. In a longer project he built, with the help of SensorySpectrum, a very motivated internal sensory analysis panel for cosmetic lotions, analysed dozens of sunscreens and crunched the data together with the DSM bio-statisticians
For 44 years Steve Bailey has been a research scientist first at UCLA, Department of Biological Chemistry, then the University of Texas, and since 1981 at the University of South Alabama, Department of Pharmacology. He is primarily involved in synthetic organic and analytical chemistry, enzyme mechanism, and clinical studies. In the early 70's he established the first HPLC methods for analysis of the pteridine heterocycles. He developed the only total stereospecific synthesis of tetrahydrobiopterin analogs and the natural folate vitaminers. While examining the latter, he and his colleague June Ayling serendipitously discovered the ability of methyltetrahydrofolate to scavenge singlet oxygen and quench excited photosensitizers, thus protecting DNA from UV. Investigations followed on the role of folate in human skin. He is co-inventor of many US and international patents. Some of his recent publications on include: Rearrangement and depletion of folate in human skin by ultraviolet radiation (Br J Dermatol, 2015); Effect of serum folate status on total folate and 5‑methyltetrahydrofolate in human skin (Am J Clin Nutr, 2013); 5-Methyltetrahydrofolate inhibits photosensitization reactions and strand breaks in DNA (FASEB J, 2007); and Methods and Compositions Containing Natural Folates for Protecting Against Radiation Damage (PCT/US2006/024415). Currently, he is studying additional aspects of natural folate photochemistry and photobiology.
Prof Robyn Lucas is a medically trained epidemiologist and public health physician. After graduating in medicine from the University of Auckland, New Zealand, Lucas worked in clinical settings in New Zealand, Canada and the Solomon Islands for five years. She took a 20 year break to be at home raising children before undertaking a PhD at the Australian National University in Canberra, Australia. During her PhD she led the assessment of the global burden of disease due to ultraviolet radiation. This highlighted the risks but, importantly, the potential benefits of sun exposure for human health. She has continued research in this area, working to better understand the pathways involved – including both via vitamin D and non-vitamin D – and the health outcomes involved. Her research has a specific focus on autoimmune diseases, particularly multiple sclerosis. Lucas works closely with Cancer Councils and MS societies to develop an evidence-base for safe sun exposure that optimises health.
Dr. Frank Pflücker is currently Director at Merck heading Global R&D, Application & Technical Service for Cosmetic Functionals. Frank has been active in the cosmetic business for approx. 20 years and started his career as Laboratory Manager for both inorganic and organic UV-filters followed by several Associate Director positions for Application Technology of Cosmetic Actives, Pearlescent Pigments & Functional Fillers at Merck.
He graduated 1994 in Chemistry from the University of Hamburg, Germany, where he received his Doctoral Degree (PhD) in Chemistry in 1998. During that period he worked as Research Fellow of the University Hospital Eppendorf (Department of Photodermatology) as well as at the Beiersdorf AG (Product Development Sun Care). Frank joined the Heinrich-Pette Institute for Experimental Virology, Department of Electron Microscopy as PostDoc in 1998. In 2003 Frank Pflücker gained a “Master of Business and Administration” from the University of Applied Sciences in Pforzheim.
Since 2000 Frank Pflücker is a member of the German Society of Cosmetic Chemists (DGK) and since 2012 he is Head of “Task Force Sun Protection”. In 2012 Frank Pflücker became a Member of the Scientific Advisory Board of the DGK. Most recently Frank joined the Program Committee of the IFSCC 2018 Congress.
Professor Young has been involved in research on the effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on human skin for the past 25 years. The European Commission (EC), UK Department of Health, UK Medical Research Council, research charities and industry have funded this research. Professor Young has a long-standing interest in photoprotection, and is also currently working on vitamin D, the photobiology of different skin types and the development of natural marine sunscreens – mycosporine like amino acids (MAA). He was recently the coordinator of a 4-year EC €3.5-million research project, within its Framework 7 Environment and Climate Change Programme, entitled “The impact of climatic and environmental factors on personal ultraviolet radiation exposure and human health (ICEPURE)”. This multi-national project assessed the beneficial and detrimental health impacts of UVR in field studies of human populations in work and leisure situations in different European countries.
Professor Young is an active member of the European Society for Photobiology (ESP) and the American Society for Photobiology (ASP), and was the winner of the ASP 2016 Research Award. He has been chairman of the British Photodermatology Group (BPG), a faculty member of the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), and is currently an associate editor of Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine and section editor of the Journal of Dermatological Science. Professor Young is also a member of the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) - Environmental Effects Assessment Panel.
Five Recent Publications
Fajuyigbe D, Young AR. 2016. The impact of skin colour on human photobiological responses. Pigment Cell & Melanoma research 29:607-618.
Lucas RM, Norval M, Neale RE, Young AR, de Gruijl FR, Takizawa Y, et al. 2015. The consequences for human health of stratospheric ozone depletion in association with other environmental factors. Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences: Official journal of the European Photochemistry Association and the European Society for Photobiology 14:53-87.
Petersen B, Wulf HC, Triguero-Mas M, Philipsen PA, Thieden E, Olsen P, et al. 2014. Sun and ski holidays improve vitamin D status, but are associated with high levels of DNA damage. The Journal of Investigative Dermatology 134:2806-2813.
Sethi M, Haque S, Fawcett H, Wing JF, Chandler N, Mohammed S, et al. 2016. A distinct genotype of XP complementation group A: Surprisingly mild phenotype highly prevalent in northern India/Pakistan/Afghanistan. The Journal of Investigative Dermatology 136:869-872.
Tewari A, Grys K, Kollet J, Sarkany R, Young AR. 2014. Upregulation of MMP12 and its activity by UVA1 in human skin: Potential implications for photoaging. The Journal of Investigative Dermatology 134:2598-2609.
Benoît Cadars is a versatile Biochemistry and Biotechnologies engineer who has been working in Cosmetic Industry for five years. He began his career as Scientific and Research Associate at Laboratoire Bioderma. He started out as the liaison between the Marketing and the Research departments where he managed projects and did bibliographical research. Now his main focus is the popularization of complex scientific concepts and the communication of those concepts in order to ensure that marketing messages remain true to the facts.
Stephan Bielfeldt has more than twenty-five years of working experience in the field of skin research. Since 2001, he is the Director Research and CTO at proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research. As the head of the research department he leads a team of scientists that perform applied in vivo and in vitro research studies in the field of cosmetics, food supplements and consumer products. His specific expertise comprises claims support studies. Stephan is further a specialist in the field of photobiological studies. As the head of the technical department Stephan leads a team of scientists and engineers who develop in vivo and biophysical test methods. He is member in two societies dedicated to scientific cosmetology and has published a large amount of scientific papers mainly in the field of in vivo skin research methods and claims support.
Ludger Kolbe is Chief Scientists for Photobiology at Beiersdorf R&D and directs the research on skin pigmentation & photobiology. He started his career in immunobiology and focused his research activities on experimental dermatology later on. At Beiersdorf, he has held various positions in research on sensitive skin, inflammatory skin conditions, skin pigmentation and photobiology.
One of his key responsibilities is the identification of new protective mechanisms for dermatological and cosmetic skin care. This led to a multitude of international patents and original papers in scientific journals and the discovery of highly effective ingredients for topical skin care products. His current focus is on the development of actives for the treatment of UV-induced skin dyspigmentation.
He is member of the Society of Investigative Dermatology, the German Society for Immunology, and the European Society for Photobiology and serves as a reviewer for various scientific journals. He is a member of the Cosmetics Europe Expert Teams on Regulatory Aspects of Sun Protection and the Taskforce for Sun Protection Methodology.
Dr Mathias Rohr gained a Physics degree from the University of Göttingen in 1988, and followed this in 1991 with a PhD in Physics / Biophysics at Max Planck Institute (MPI) für Strahlenchemie/Mülheim-Ruhr Germany (Scholarship of the Alfried Krupp von Bohlen und Halbach Foundation).
In 1991-1992 he completed a Post doctorate at the MPI für Strahlenchemie, Department for Biophysics.
Since 1992 he is an employee at Institut Dr. Schrader Hautphysiologie / Holzminden Germany.
He is responsible in particular for SPF-Testing and Research in the field of Biophysical Methods in Skin-Science, routine Skin Surface Analysis and all skin physiological testing.
He is a member of ISO/TC 217/WG 7 (SPF), of DGK (Working Group Sunscreens) and ISBS. He has authored various publications in the fields of skin physiology and biophysics:
• HDRS, SPF, SPF-quality, influence of physical side parameters on the in vivo SPF;
• ICL-S (Induced CemiLuminescence of Human Skin); Oxidative Protection measured in vivo
• Skin surface analysis by FOITS (Fast Optical In vivo Topometry of Human Skin);
• Climatic influence on cosmetic skin parameters;
• LIOAS (Laser Induced Opto-Acoustic Spectroscopy) / Photoacoustic Spectroscopy;
• NIR-RS (Near InfraRed Remission Spectroscopy) (IFSCC Applied Research Award 2004).
Paul joined Procter & Gamble 1988 and has spent the majority of his career in R&D conducting research and developing methods to feed the technology pipelines of brands such as Olay, Max Factor, Dolce & Gabbana, SKII, and others. As Research Fellow, he has specific expertise in measurement / modelling of many aspects of skin structure, function and appearance, sun protection and the psychology of perception of skin, among other areas. He is Visiting Professor to the London College of Fashion and University College London School of Pharmacy and the Chair of the Cosmetics Europe (European Trade Association) Expert Team: Regulatory Aspects of Sun Protection and a Fellow of the Royal Society of the Arts and Royal Society of Chemistry. He is a proponent of Community Dermatology and involved in and highly passionate about several projects in Africa related to skin disease and its prevention / treatment using low-cost, sustainable materials. Paul is married with three children and, when he has time, a fanatic UK SCUBA diver and BSAC instructor.
Dr. Ratan Chaudhuri is Founder, President & CEO, Sytheon Ltd, a developer and marketer of evidence-based cosmetic ingredients company. He has been in the cosmetics industry for well over 25 years. Before starting Sytheon Ltd. in 2006, Dr. Chaudhuri was Director of Cosmetics Research & Applications at EMD Chemicals Inc. (an affiliate of Merck Germany) and prior to that he was R&D Manager at International Specialty Products (ISP, currently Ashland Chemicals). Dr. Chaudhuri has been instrumental in conceptualizing and commercializing numerous products in the Cosmetics, Industrial, and Pharmaceutical markets and helped commercialize these products successfully.
Dr. Chaudhuri is a frequent speaker at the national and international scientific meetings and also a reviewer for International J Cosmetic Science & Current Pharmaceutical Biotech. He is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, American Chemical Society and Personal Care Products Council. Dr. Chaudhuri has seventy three issued US patents and numerous pending and foreign patents. He has published over eighty scientific papers and written several book chapter articles. His recent two chapter articles are: Hexylresorcinol: Providing Skin Benefits by Modulating Multiple Molecular Targets and Bakuchiol: A Retinol-Like Functional Compound, Modulating Multiple Retinol and Non-retinol Targets, published in Cosmeceuticals & Active Cosmetics, 3rd Edition, Eds Sivamani, Jared Jagdeo, Peter Elsner & Howard I Maibach, 2015.
Jessen CURPEN is responsible of the development of Clinical Study Designs for CIDP Group.
Chairing the CIDP Biophysics and Imaging Committee, Jessen and his team set up methodologies for Claims Substantiation of Cosmetic products.
Before joining CIDP, Jessen has worked for 5 years at the MSIRI, a state-owned research institute as a Chemist and Sugar Technologist.
Jessen joined the Quality Department of CIDP in 2009 as Quality Officer and acted as the Global Quality Manager of the group before stepping into the Chief Operating Officer role in 2014. In 2016, he moved to the newly created Biophysics Department with the aim of setting up novel study designs for cosmetic trials. Jessen is currently working on new methodologies for “anti-pollution” and “blue light” claim substantiation.
Jessen holds a Master Degree in Quality Management and a Bachelor Degree in Applied Chemistry at University of Mauritius. He also studied Limnology and Geochemistry at the Uppsala University in Sweden.
The short term damaging effects of UV radiation to the skin are well recognised by the reddening, blistering and burning that occurs as a result of over exposure to sunlight. This presentation will highlight the latest findings on HEV (high energy visible) light and infrared radiation on the skin using a novel ESR (electron spin resonance) technique on skin models and primary skin cells to show how different cell types react differently to these various wavelengths at the cellular, nuclear and mitochondrial levels.
There is increasing evidence that sunscreens, especially synthetic organic filters damage marine environments. This has led to a search for biocompatible sunscreens. Many marine microorganisms contain UVR absorbing molecules such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA), which are highly photostable and believed to be natural sunscreens. MAA accumulate up the food chain and are stored preferentially in UVR exposed tissues. We demonstrate palythine as a model MAA that inhibits UVR induced damage, including DNA lesions, oxidative stress and gene expression associated with photoageing, inflammation and oxidative stress. We suggest that MAA be developed as biocompatible sunscreens with anti-oxidant properties.
Some studies show that Infrared rays have deleterious effects on skin. Consequently, certain cosmetic brands have launched sunscreens that claim to protect against these rays. During this session we’ll take a closer look at the available data to help you to better understand the effects of Infrared rays and decide for yourself whether or not sunscreens should protect against them.
Epidemiological studies have shown that even in summer a significant number of people suffer from vitamin D deficiency. In recent years, the question about the role sunscreens may play in this context is often raised. Sunscreen compositions in most cases are designed to protect against the erythemally active solar radiation, characterized by the sun protection factor (SPF), while offering also a certain protection in the UVA range that should scale with the height of the SPF.
The action spectra for erythema formation and for formation of pre-vitamin D in the skin are similar in the UVB but differ significantly in the UVA range. While erythema formation occurs in the whole UV-range between 290 and 400 nm, pre-vitamin D formation is only promoted by UVB wavelengths. Thus, when choosing the UV filter composition in a sunscreen appropriately, it is possible to optimize pre-vitamin D synthesis in the skin at a given sun protection factor (SPF). Broad-spectrum sunscreens which offer similar protection in the UVB- and the UVA-range are best suited in this respect.
This is demonstrated with examples of SPF 6, 15, and 30 using the BASF Sunscreen Simulator. In addition, the time necessary to achieve the recommended daily dose of 2000 international units (IU) of vitamin D is calculated. For an optimized SPF 30 sunscreen, this turns out to be a bit less than two hours, which is comparable to real-life situations, for example the amount of time people would spend at the beach. It is shown that the concept is even more interesting for daily care formulations, most of which nowadays contain UV filters for sun protection.
Nano-sized ingredients have their established position in cosmetics. Since 2009, the Cosmetics Regulation is requesting a separate assessment of materials which are classified nano. In addition, the definition of nanomaterial leaves a wide room for interpretation.
However, the analytical and toxicological methods for the investigations necessary are neither clearly defined, nor yet developed far enough to cope with all specific requirements of nano-sized materials. One of the most challenging issues is how to distinguish between the effects caused by the chemical itself and those caused by its physical size.
The challenges and uncertainties being faced during the long registration road of nano UV-filters are described and exemplified by two organic UV-filters.
The introduction of new UV filters into global markets has been advocated by suppliers and manufacturers of sunscreen products. While different safety requirements exist depending, in part, on regulatory classification and registration processes, to date, the US seems the most challenging for bringing a new UV filter to market. The US Food & Drug Administration has taken some steps in this direction, however the toxicological requirements for obtaining Generally Recognized as Safe and Effective or GRAS(E) status are extensive. This presentation will review the presumed reasoning behind these data requirements and how they compare to other regions of the world.
Cumulative exposure of human skin to acute UV is one of the biggest factors that leads to premature ageing and significant molecular and structural changes. Thus it is important to understand the immediate effects from an acute exposure event. This can serve as a strategy to intervene and block the negative impact from acute solar UV microdamage and thereby slow down or prevent the overall photoageing process. It has been shown that niacinamide can prevent UV-induced changes such as UV-induced immunosuppression. However, it was not clear whether niacinamide can impact other hallmark changes that occur from acute exposure. Both in vitro data and a UV clinical protocol results show that niacinamide can prevent and mitigate UV microdamage effects in human skin.
Human keratinocytes and fibroblasts were used to develop inflammation and oxidative stress assays. Niacinamide significantly reduced UV-induced synthesis of PGE2 in keratinocytes and maintained cellular integrity as assessed by cellular morphology appearance. Niacinamide protected and repaired alterations in glycolysis under oxidative stress conditions in fibroblasts.
Clinical testing found that 5% niacinamide can reduce the negative effects from a 1.5 MED exposure of UV. 44 female Fitzpatrick II-III panelists had controlled aily application over 2 weeks of products on their backs. Treatments included an oil-in-water emulsion vehicle control, 5% niacinamide, and a no treatment site. After 2 weeks of application, treated sites were exposed to 1.5 MED of UV. After exposure, panelists continued to have product applied for an additional 2 weeks. Clinical measures were collected over the course of the study at varying time points before and after UV exposure. 5% niacinamide showed a significant effect in reducing UV-induced erythema as assessed by expert grading and a values to vehicle and no treatment sites. Niacinamide also mitigated UV-induced barrier disruption as assessed by TEWL. Analysis of IL-1RA/IL-1 biomarker ratios showed niacinamide significantly reduced the UV induction of this inflammatory cytokine ratio compared to control sites.
These findings show that niacinamide is able to reduce the immediate microdamage elicited by acute UV exposure in human skin. We hypothesize that it’s mechanism of action is to enhance NAD+ levels and stabilize cellular bioenergetics. This in turn allows a controlled cellular response to mitigate the inflammatory cascade induced by UV.
ISO 24444, the benchmark standard for SPF testing, has now been adopted on over 60 countries. 5 years after implementation, substantial changes are planned for this test method. Reflecting on the latest consensus from the ISO Experts, this presentation will identify the most important of these pending changes and how they will impact on sunscreens efficacy testing in the future.
Please confirm that these fit the theme. A thought - I see that the first one might well cover the opening gambit in relation to the first step of ensuring protection efficacy. Then the counter would be a presentation on the Vit D side of the issue!
Not sure if you wanted to follow up on the Vit D sunscreen presentation by Bianca McCarthy. You had asked me what the Vit D like compound was and it is curcumin. SO, I wonder, does high UV efficacy PLUS Vit D fix the conundrum and bring both sides of together?
Does In lab match In use? We all share the same Sun and yet it is most often overlooked when we develop sunscreens using our loyal Solar Simulator. We will look at the relationship between the Sun, the Ultra Violet Index "UVI" and the Solar Simulator and how we need to be sure that we are providing, for consumers, sun protection products that perform in use equally in all parts of the world.
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The new HDRS technique of combining UVA in vitro testing according to ISO 24443 and in vivo testing of a diffuse reflectance spectrum of sun screens on the skin is presented. Using a reflectance spectrometer a sensitivity of about 6 OD is realized by in vivo measurements on the skin. Data from different skin types (photo type I to V), different types of sunscreens over a wide range of SPF’s will be presented to discuss possible optical influences on HDRS driven SPF values in comparison to ISO 24444 data.
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It is well established that mutagenic cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) are formed immediatelyafter a UV photon directly hit thymine or cytosine sites in DNA (iCPDs; Schreier et al., Science, 315:625-629, 2007). Recently, Brash et al., have shown that formation of CPDs continued even several hours after UVA exposure in melanin containing murine melanocytes (Premi et al., Science, 347:842, 2015) and are enzyme-induced. These CPDs, generated at a later time after irradiation, were called “Dark CPDs (dCPDs).” However, this pathway was absent in fibroblasts and albino melanocytes which lack melanin pigment. Intrigued by this latest discovery, the present authors investigated the potential of using certain aryl alkanones in decreasing immediate and delayed formation of CPDs. The generation of dCPDs by UVA, a major component of sunlight and tanning beds, suggests that the effects of UVR have been underestimated to date and pose a greater risk overall.
This study demonstrates that certain aryl alkanones have inhibitory activity against immediate and delayed formation of CPDs. For example, an overnight treatment of human dermal keratinocytes or fibroblasts with 3-(3-methoxy-4-hydroxybenzyl)-2, 4-pentanedione (MHPD) followed by UVA exposure resulted in 73% and 45% decrease in the formation of iCPDs vs. control, respectively. As expected, formation of dCPDs was observed in keratinocytes, but not with fibroblasts, MHPD was able to reduce formation of dCPDs in keratinocytes by about 57%. When melanocytes were used, formation of dCPDs was reduced by about 68%. Reduction in the CPDs formation by MHPD did not affect DNA repair system. Interestingly, no reduction in the formation of CPDs was observed with the removal of a C-alkyl group from MHPD (such as in zingerone). Our study shows that MHPD is inhibiting dCPDs by dual action of NADPH Oxidase (NOX) inhibition and peroxynitrite radical quenching. Scavenging of peroxynitrite may bepreferable than inhibiting nitric oxide synthase (NOS) because of diverse beneficial physiological functions of nitric oxide (NO).
This is the first report of a single compound inhibiting formation of mutagenic CPDs caused both by direct photon- and enzyme-mediated pathways. It suggests that certain aryl alkanones may have the potential to avert skin photo-damage before, during or after sun exposure in combination with photo-stable sunscreens.
Exposure of humans to solar radiation primarily has effects on the skin and eyes. Solar energy is absorbed by a range of molecules, altering them and leading to downstream effects. While the focus has been on ultraviolet (UV) radiation, we are now beginning to appreciate that there are also effects from exposure to the broader solar spectrum. On the negative side, exposure of the skin to UV radiation results in DNA damage and immune suppression that together can eventually lead to skin cancer. Destruction of elastin in the dermis leads to loss of skin tension and typical signs of photoageing. Benefits of sun exposure for the production of vitamin D are well-recognised, but now seem less wide-ranging than previously thought. At the same time, there may be a range of non-vitamin D benefits of sun exposure across the UV wavelengths and into the visible light wavelengths. The challenge now is to design sun protection to maximise the benefits but minimize the risks of sun exposure.
It is of importance that sunscreen products are protective also during outdoor physical activity. Sport activities require a long lasting efficacy because they often prevent a frequent reapplication. Further, they usually stimulate sweating that may contribute to an accelerated reduction of sunscreen efficacy. Sweating may also mobilise product ingredients to spread into the eye. Therefore, formulations for outdoor activities should not allow spreading into the eyes and exhibit a good eye tolerance.
In this presentation in vivo test designs are presented to measure long lasting sunscreen efficacy including sweating and standardized physical exercise. Further, an in vivo eye installation method using diluted sunscreen samples is presented. The method is appropriate to measure the eye irritation potential in a most realistic way. Example test results will be presented and chances and limits of the methods will be discussed.
Dr Stephan Bielfeldt, proDerm, Germany
The SPF (sun protection factor) is the best-known reference in the world for expressing UVB protection. The SPF is used for labelling purposes for consumer guidance. The determination of the SPF is often accomplished using an in vivo method that has been standardized. Currently, only one in vivo SPF value from one laboratory is required for claiming an SPF value.
The aim of this study was to determine the relevance of the in vivo SPF value in terms of interlaboratory variability for claiming purposes and to determine whether some minimum number of different in vivo SPF values from different laboratories would improve the reliability of the final SPF claimed.
Mr. Sébastien MIKSA started his career at L’Oréal in R&I Lipstick, R&I Foundation and R&I Photoprotection departments and gained in parallel a Chemistry engineer degree and a Master’s degree - Formulated product engineering - at the University of Technology of Compiègne (UTC), France.
Involved in sunscreen testing for several years at HelioScreen, he has held various positions as R&D Engineer, Laboratory Manager and General Manager and acquired profound knowledge in sun protection field. He published plenty papers concerning innovations in this field such as the robotic spreading, the new reproducible sandblasted plates and the multi-substrates approach for in vitro SPF assessment.
Furthermore, he is member of AFNOR/S91KGT07 (Sun Protection Test Methods), CEN/TC 392/WG 004 (Efficacy including sun protection products), ISO/TC 217/WG 7 (Cosmetics - Sun Protection Test Methods) and Bipea/Technical Group (Sun protection products - SPF in vivo – UVA in vivo – UVA in vitro).
The efficacy of sun protection products is determined via their efficacy to prevent sunburn. UV filters in suncare products absorb or scatter solar UV radiation and, thus, prevent the penetration of these damaging rays into the skin. More precisely, suncare products are designed to prevent erythema caused by an inflammatory skin reaction following the damaging effects of UV exposure. Recently, some publications raised concerns that suncare products may have anti-inflammatory efficacy and actively suppress the sunburn reaction. This would result in labelling much higher SPF than justified by UV filter efficacy. Most suncare products contain antioxidants, which are described to have an impact on erythema development after long-term use at high concentrations. Even some UV filters are alleged to have anti-inflammatory effects themselves. Inflammation is known to be a driver of skin cancer progression. Therefore, anti-inflammatory mechanisms even might be beneficial in photoprotection, provided that the anti-inflammatory action is not an anti-redness effect. Published and new data show that, if formulated properly, sun protection products do not suppress UV-induced erythema and the measured SPF reflects the true UV-protection capacity of the product, allowing the consumer to fully rely on the claimed product efficacy.
Skin cancer is now the world’s most common form. There is a greater need than ever for clear, intuitive, unambiguous public communication on every front. The science of sun protection is complex, however, mingling the physics of radiative transfer, the biology of skin response and the chemistry of sunscreen. Effective translation is critical. This presentation will consider the effectiveness of national and international public education campaigns, sun protection labelling schemes and expert consensus statements and discuss possible approaches for the future.
It is thought that skin pigmentation evolved in humans not only to balance the need for vitamin D biosynthesis vs preventing DNA damage, but also the destruction of the folate pool. But surprisingly, we discovered that 5 methyltetrahydrofolate (5-MTHF, the most abundant skin folate) can itself obviate DNA strand breaks by eliminating the singlet oxygen and excited photosensitizers generated by UVA and UVB. However, we also found that those with low body folate status have low skin folate. This can be remediated by the rapid epidermal absorption of topical 5-MTHF, thus providing a new approach for protecting skin.